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Koh Ker, three hours from Siem Reap, served as the capital of the Khmer empire from 928 to 944, and was built under King Jayavarman IV under whose reign colossal sculptures and lingas were constructed, leading to charges of megalomania. Some of the lingas remain, though the sculptures have been removed to the museum in Phnom Penh. The site, which has only recently been demined, is dominated by Prasat Thom, a 30 meter high pyramid temple. In view of the distance, there are far fewer crowds here, making a visit an easier and more pastoral experience.
Beng melea was built as a Hindu temple, but there are some carvings depicting buddhist motifs. Its primary material is sandstone and it is largely unrestored, with trees and thick brush thriving amidst its towers and courtyards and many of its stones lying in great heaps. For years it was difficult to reach, but a road recently built to the temple complex of Koh Ker passes Beng Mealea and more visitors are coming to the site, as it is 77 km from Siem Reap by road.
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